Healing Gardens

         We hope that our project will provide a good foundation for planning the Longhouse Garden’s compost site. Our goal has been to research compost in such a way that we understand the basics of the decomposition process as well as different methods and techniques for composting.
            We would like to see the current “structure” at the compost site removed and a new one built in its place to facilitate the creation of humus for the whole garden. Based on our research, we think a three-bin structure would be ideal for the size of the garden and the amount of plant material that will be available for starting the pile. Using the Indore method would mean that the pile would decompose quickly without the need for much turning; we think this is also a good choice for the Longhouse Garden.

There are three general types of structures: the bin, the pen, and the pit. The Pit is pretty obvious, and can be useful in retaining moisture in a dry area. Bins are permanent structures, while pens are portable and can be moved from place to place.

BINS:

Some examples of working compost sites:

The Lincoln School Organic Farm

Marja’s Garden

Plants Growing Around the Compost Site:

Western Red Cedar, Thuja plicata

Alder, Alnus glutinosa

I. Overview:

The compost area is located in the southwest corner of the long house. The existing compost structure is in a dilapidated state and over grown by Salmon Berry. To the left of the compost bins Coltsfoot and Comfrey are present. The ground is slightly uneven and there is evidence of moles.

II. Describing Garden Site:

Facts and Information About Compost:

“Composting is, in broadest terms, the biological reduction of organic wastes to humus (Pg. 1).”

Humus is decayed plant life in its final form. It is rich in nutrients and organic matter. It is perfect soil.

WORMS!

Materials for Composting (Do’s and Don’ts)

Composting materials from home

Kitchen waste

Weeds, grass clippings, plant debris

Dog and cat hair

The Indore Method:

Sir Albert Howard created this method as way of “assuring that proper amounts of different materials get incorporated into the heap (Rodale 1973, p.47).” The focus is on proportions of the ingredients: 3-4:1 organic plant matter to manure plus a small amount of rock material (limestone or chalk).
The primary process of the Indore method is to layer these materials alternately, to ensure decomposition of the heap, and to allow it to take place on its own, with little involvement or labor necessary. The layers provide the proper amount of aeration necessary for nitrogen-rich manure to break down the carbon-rich plant materials without needing to be constantly turned.

There are so many methods for composting. Most of them stem from the Indore method, developed by Sir Albert Howard. In order for a compost heap to produce humus, it must have “air, moisture, energy food (carbon), and protein food (nitrogen) (Rodale 1992, p. 130)” to create high enough temperatures for decomposition.
Turning the pile is the best way to aerate the compost. Some farmers and gardeners even put a slotted pipe right through the very top of their pile, or along the bottom of it, to ensure that enough air is coming into the pile, to keep aerobic bacteria alive and decompose raw materials.